By Alison Geisler
12:20 PM EDT, July 9, 2013
36 Broad St., Milford, (203) 876-1935; 1520 Post Rd., Fairfield, (203) 259-1989; 172 Myrtle Ave., Stamford, (203) 359-2184, colonygrill.com.
There is no shortage of great pizza in this state. New Haven has left its mark on the pizza history books, but even the suburbs have pizza joints with unique spins on the beloved thin-crust, sauce-slathered, cheese-topped configuration we all know and love. Fairfield County has had its own pizza formula to rave about since Colony Grill opened in Stamford in 1935. A few years ago, four friends (including former New York Rangers captain and Trumbull native Chris Drury) decided to open up a Colony franchise in Fairfield, and as of May have expanded Colony's reach to downtown Milford.
Colony Grill's pizza may look similar to what we're used to around here, but looks can be deceiving. The taste of these pies is something all Colony's own. The pizzas come in one size, which is perfect for splitting between two people. The toppings list has standard pizza topping fare, like sausage, bacon, mushrooms, onions and pepperoni, but it's the hot oil that separates everything about this pizza from everything about any other pizza. So much so that pizza is now the only non-beverage item on Colony Grill's menu.
Since the Milford location opened in late-May, I've enjoyed Colony's pizza about a half-dozen times. That's more than I've ever visited any of New Haven's pizza giants combined, in the same amount of time. My first experience with Colony came just over a week after the place officially opened. My boyfriend and I ordered three pies to share, and managed to put away more than half of what we ordered. We ordered a sausage and hot oil pie, as it's the topping combination he'd been raving about to me since he found out Milford would soon be home to his favorite pizza. I of course went straight for bacon and hot oil, and our third pie came topped with onion and mushrooms. Colony does not skimp on the toppings. The plump bits of sausage are evenly placed over the whole pie. Full bacon strips are used instead of crumbly pieces. And the veggies on our third pie might as well have been part of the whole package deal as there were so many.
Now, the hot oil is not necessary to enjoying Colony's pizza, but I'm really not sure why anyone would ever order a pie without it. It's got just a hint of spice, just a kick, and it adds a subtle flavor without overpowering the rest of the pizza. Just a fair warning that a fresh-out-of-the-oven hot oil pizza may be a little messy and drippy, so don't be shy about using a ton of napkins or asking for another paper plate.
The beer selection at Colony in Milford will satisfy both the snobs and the swill drinkers. We've enjoyed anything from an awesome brew from Two Roads in Stratford, to happily splitting a pitcher of Pabst Blue Ribbon, to my (probably unnecessary) excitement about Schaefer in cans. This pizza was made to be washed down with beer, and Colony's not messing around.
Grab some friends, bring them to Colony Grill, and enjoy some damn good pizza that isn't trying to be anything but what it is.
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