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Flavor Profile: El Mariachi Loco in Manchester
It's possible to appreciate El Mariachi Loco, a small Mexican restaurant on Manchester's Main Street, for what it doesn't have as much as for what it does offer -- tasty tacos, burritos, mole dishes, enchiladas and a few regional specialties. Many Mexican restaurants are what you might call festive. Blaring juke boxes with horn-heavy norteno music, prominent TVs showing operatic telenovelas, sombreros and bright tissue paper out the wazoo, maybe a wandering band of mildly predatory mariachi musicians, or even a roving balloon artist for the kids, not to mention those hissing and sizzling plates of fajitas. It can be the kind of sensory overload that can give palpitation to the most delicate of us. That's why I found myself surprised and appreciative of the almost monastic calm at El Mariachi Loco last week. There were no mariachis. There was no loco.
By Steve Alcazari
September 17, 2013